Monday, June 23, 2008

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The line, in navy blue, black, dark green and mustard yellow, contrasted light items and rigid structure for trousers and jeans. White T-shirts and shorts were worn with black socks.

Gianfranco Ferre used a presentation instead of a catwalk show to present smoothly cut jackets, linear overcoats and slim trousers in dark neutral Colors with skinny belts that added shine.

Ferre said the line, designed by the house's creative team, had no clear inspiration "other than man himself."

Britain's Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen also presented lines. Westwood featured vests, loose-fitting shirts and a pink tracksuit, even bringing on a dog to accompany one of her models.

McQueen looked at body definition, with collars vanishing into the body of jackets.

Milan's spring and summer 2009 menswear shows run until June 24. More than 40 designers are holding catwalk shows.

(Editing by Andrew Dobbie)

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At Emporio Armani, the theme was Nordic Europe, and designs emphasized a streamlined silhouette with wide trousers narrow at the hem and close-fitting sleeves with a narrow shawl collar.

Giorgio Armani used mainly dark Colors with hues of grey to dark variations of navy blue. He presented tight waistcoats and jackets with several zips all the way down.

Linings were piped, making the outfits look light with materials such as linen, silk and polyester blends. The show, watched by American actor Josh Hartnett, also offered light parkas and mini-trenches with drawstring Bermudas for sportswear.

Miuccia Prada turned out her models in cropped jumpers and long T-shirts that were low cut. The designer presented low-cut jumpers and jackets, some with a strap on the inside over the shoulder.

Bikin fashion for hot girl

Cavalli catered for all temperatures, going from jumpers and thickish, holey scarves to tight colorful swimwear. Leather belts were tied around jackets, some with no collars.

Bottega Veneta presented what it called an "extended meditation" on the jacket, starting with an unlined, light, pajama-inspired jacket in printed cotton or cashmere and moving on to "double" jackets of two monochromatic layers.

Designer Tomas Maier also sent out models in blazers in knit and jersey, finishing with a white shantung silk dinner jacket.

"Thinking about menswear clothes, for me the most important item is the jacket," Maier told Reuters after the show. "I also like the fact that the man is more covered. There is a lot of nudity out there and I think it is a little bit too much."

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Images of a floral bouquet and animal prints also featured in his menswear collection, entitled "Bohemian Safari," on the second day of Milan fashion week.

Cavalli, who also sent out female models in long, floating dresses -- some with gold chain detailing hugging the frame -- said he envisioned an extravagant man, an explorer, "a hippie and a nomad, who wears memories from a safari on himself."

"(Next summer's) man is very free," he told Reuters.

Colors were vivid with doses of white, dark brown, red, geranium and intense blue. Silhouettes were skinny on top and large at the bottom or the contrary. Kaftans and shirts with airy sleeves paired with pajama trousers or skinny printed jeans.

Hot Beauty girl

From the ultra soft pajama jacket to the classic blazer, to the white shantung silk dinner jacket, the idea is to keep a guy stylish and comfortable throughout the day. Novelty comes in the "double jacket" which appears to have separate layers, creating a two-jackets-in-one effect.

"If you think about the gap in menswear between a tailored suit and a T-shirt and jeans, it's filled by the jacket," Maier says in his show notes.

Ultra-soft trousers with well-defined cuff, cool khaki and pastel shades, loafers and saddle shoes, and the latest men's shopping bag in Bottega's exquisite leather complete the collection's casual chic.

Sunday afternoon, Giorgio Armani presented his second line Emporio collection aimed at a younger customer.

The first part of the show reflected the current return of the jacket and suit, with the added attraction of the vest, either as part of the suit or on its own. Here the designer was tops, but then suit tailoring comes naturally to the maestro who invented the unlined jacket back in the 1970's. An Armani suit is a must in the closets of the rich and famous.

Fashion teen Designers

The new Versace suit has a structured jacket softened by a double lapel or no lapel at all and slim trousers with slick techno-fabric sheen. Crazy zigzags break up the monotony of pinstripes and checks, while the pastel palette gives the collection a warm summer feel.

Sitting in the front row, actor Rupert Everett applauded enthusiastically, showing that even if it was not dedicated to him, he found the collection right up his alley.

Overall, this round of "moda Milanese" menswear preview collections, which ends Wednesday, promises to be all about chilling out, a refreshing thought in a Milan in the grip of this summer's first heat wave.

The relaxed feel of the collections is epitomized by the return of the unlined jacket, which, when coupled with wide loose trousers, creates a casual yet elegant summer suit.

Right at home with this look was Tomas Maier, the creative director at Bottega Veneta, who presented his collection Sunday morning.

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Calling the U.S. presidential hopeful "the man of the moment," Donatella Versace dedicated her Spring-Summer 2009 collection presented Saturday evening to Obama, creating a style she said was designed for "a relaxed man who doesn't need to flex muscles to show he has power."

Chatting with reporters in the cool of the garden of her private palazzo in downtown Milan at an after-show dinner party, the designer also had some fashion tips for the campaign trail. "I would get rid of the tie and jazz up the shirt," she said.

In fact, there were no ties in Donatella's latest show, and shirts under jackets were either super easy with rolled up sleeves or replaced by a silk T-shirt.