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The line, in navy blue, black, dark green and mustard yellow, contrasted light items and rigid structure for trousers and jeans. White T-shirts and shorts were worn with black socks.

Gianfranco Ferre used a presentation instead of a catwalk show to present smoothly cut jackets, linear overcoats and slim trousers in dark neutral Colors with skinny belts that added shine.

Ferre said the line, designed by the house's creative team, had no clear inspiration "other than man himself."

Britain's Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen also presented lines. Westwood featured vests, loose-fitting shirts and a pink tracksuit, even bringing on a dog to accompany one of her models.

McQueen looked at body definition, with collars vanishing into the body of jackets.

Milan's spring and summer 2009 menswear shows run until June 24. More than 40 designers are holding catwalk shows.

(Editing by Andrew Dobbie)

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At Emporio Armani, the theme was Nordic Europe, and designs emphasized a streamlined silhouette with wide trousers narrow at the hem and close-fitting sleeves with a narrow shawl collar.

Giorgio Armani used mainly dark Colors with hues of grey to dark variations of navy blue. He presented tight waistcoats and jackets with several zips all the way down.

Linings were piped, making the outfits look light with materials such as linen, silk and polyester blends. The show, watched by American actor Josh Hartnett, also offered light parkas and mini-trenches with drawstring Bermudas for sportswear.

Miuccia Prada turned out her models in cropped jumpers and long T-shirts that were low cut. The designer presented low-cut jumpers and jackets, some with a strap on the inside over the shoulder.

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Cavalli catered for all temperatures, going from jumpers and thickish, holey scarves to tight colorful swimwear. Leather belts were tied around jackets, some with no collars.

Bottega Veneta presented what it called an "extended meditation" on the jacket, starting with an unlined, light, pajama-inspired jacket in printed cotton or cashmere and moving on to "double" jackets of two monochromatic layers.

Designer Tomas Maier also sent out models in blazers in knit and jersey, finishing with a white shantung silk dinner jacket.

"Thinking about menswear clothes, for me the most important item is the jacket," Maier told Reuters after the show. "I also like the fact that the man is more covered. There is a lot of nudity out there and I think it is a little bit too much."

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Images of a floral bouquet and animal prints also featured in his menswear collection, entitled "Bohemian Safari," on the second day of Milan fashion week.

Cavalli, who also sent out female models in long, floating dresses -- some with gold chain detailing hugging the frame -- said he envisioned an extravagant man, an explorer, "a hippie and a nomad, who wears memories from a safari on himself."

"(Next summer's) man is very free," he told Reuters.

Colors were vivid with doses of white, dark brown, red, geranium and intense blue. Silhouettes were skinny on top and large at the bottom or the contrary. Kaftans and shirts with airy sleeves paired with pajama trousers or skinny printed jeans.

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From the ultra soft pajama jacket to the classic blazer, to the white shantung silk dinner jacket, the idea is to keep a guy stylish and comfortable throughout the day. Novelty comes in the "double jacket" which appears to have separate layers, creating a two-jackets-in-one effect.

"If you think about the gap in menswear between a tailored suit and a T-shirt and jeans, it's filled by the jacket," Maier says in his show notes.

Ultra-soft trousers with well-defined cuff, cool khaki and pastel shades, loafers and saddle shoes, and the latest men's shopping bag in Bottega's exquisite leather complete the collection's casual chic.

Sunday afternoon, Giorgio Armani presented his second line Emporio collection aimed at a younger customer.

The first part of the show reflected the current return of the jacket and suit, with the added attraction of the vest, either as part of the suit or on its own. Here the designer was tops, but then suit tailoring comes naturally to the maestro who invented the unlined jacket back in the 1970's. An Armani suit is a must in the closets of the rich and famous.

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The new Versace suit has a structured jacket softened by a double lapel or no lapel at all and slim trousers with slick techno-fabric sheen. Crazy zigzags break up the monotony of pinstripes and checks, while the pastel palette gives the collection a warm summer feel.

Sitting in the front row, actor Rupert Everett applauded enthusiastically, showing that even if it was not dedicated to him, he found the collection right up his alley.

Overall, this round of "moda Milanese" menswear preview collections, which ends Wednesday, promises to be all about chilling out, a refreshing thought in a Milan in the grip of this summer's first heat wave.

The relaxed feel of the collections is epitomized by the return of the unlined jacket, which, when coupled with wide loose trousers, creates a casual yet elegant summer suit.

Right at home with this look was Tomas Maier, the creative director at Bottega Veneta, who presented his collection Sunday morning.

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Calling the U.S. presidential hopeful "the man of the moment," Donatella Versace dedicated her Spring-Summer 2009 collection presented Saturday evening to Obama, creating a style she said was designed for "a relaxed man who doesn't need to flex muscles to show he has power."

Chatting with reporters in the cool of the garden of her private palazzo in downtown Milan at an after-show dinner party, the designer also had some fashion tips for the campaign trail. "I would get rid of the tie and jazz up the shirt," she said.

In fact, there were no ties in Donatella's latest show, and shirts under jackets were either super easy with rolled up sleeves or replaced by a silk T-shirt.

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A mono-color, print free collection the clothes big distinguishing feature was the fact that all the jackets, blousons and dressing gowns had an interior elastic strap that looped around each model's neck; a curious accoutrement whose function was unclear other than to help the garment hang open on the catwalk. That last was the real star of this event; a brilliant stage set of miniature wooden platforms and mini hills, in between which rambled the show's cast. Few of the styling tricks - like wrapping a rubber band around all the boots and shoes - seemed terribly innovative, and, remarkably for Prada the clothes looked not at all new.

"From fascism to democracy," Miuccia Prada commented to FWD, referring to her last women's collection, an austere vision of authoritative ladies. Yet, it seemed an odd view of the participatory democracy when you don't allow the voters much chance to look at the goods. In a word, an ill-conceived moment from Italian fashion's greatest conceptualist.

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Fragrance launches normally involve guests sensing the new cologne or perfume on scent sticks; and leaving with a flacon of the stuff. But nothing could be so simple for Prada, especially after a curious runway show, whose main conceptual thread involved men wearing clothes many of which seemed borrowed from their girlfriends - fashion it was hard to see many of them wearing outside their own homes.

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Instead, the Italian brand staged a runway show unveiling its spring 2009 men's collection and then projected a series of nine short experimental movies whose brief was "to challenge the idea of a perfume for a man; to produce visionary content" inspired by "sensory association of the Infusion d'Homme perfume."

Largely pretentious visual ramblings by avant-garde cineastes, shown in semi darkness to around 500 people, these mini clips featured everything from verbal ramblings to images of a monkey awaking as it senses a new smell. Quite why an Italian label feels the need to name it's newest cologne with a French title was never terribly clear, nor why the scent was nigh impossible to simply sniff. Few senior editors who attended when questioned the following morning reported actually smelling the cologne, or even seeing a bottle, though at one stage waiters did walk around in the gloom with trays bearing tiny bottles of the new scent.

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Tom Ford's store is just under 12,000 square feet over five floors, sumptuously decorated in deep brown velvets, mahogany and marble. In the entrance hangs a dramatic black artwork commissioned by German artist Anselm Reyle -- but no merchandise.

"It should feel like a house ... much more private than a store," Ford said.

On the top floor are two private salons for clients considering made-to-measure suits, with a terrace and a bar.

"They love to have a glass of champagne and drink and drink and shop and shop," he said, declining to disclose client names.

One well-advertised customer is Daniel Craig, who wears Tom Ford outfits in the next James Bond movie, "Quantum of Solace."

"I think Daniel Craig is the best Bond since Sean Connery," Ford said. "He likes very simple things. It's hard to get him even to wear diamond cufflinks with a tuxedo."

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"Absolutely not at all," said Ford, when asked if customers were feeling the pinch.

"Our customers are maybe not buying a house or a Warhol, but they are still buying clothes," he said, without giving detailed figures. "We are way ahead of our projections."

Ford set up his own design line in 2005 with Domenico De Sole after the two left Italian fashion house Gucci following a failure to agree contract terms.

The impeccably dressed designer -- whose boots alone cost $10,000 -- already has a store in New York and more are planned in over a dozen locations including London, Los Angeles and Dubai.

The Milan store is in a clean-lined grey building which was previously home to Ermenegildo Zegna, the self-styled world leader in luxury men's clothing which has moved further into Milan's "golden quadrangle" of luxury boutiques.

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The clothes had a Thirties feel, but updated with the contemporary slim-line silhouette. However, Ferre's DNA was evident throughout, whether in the broad, gangster like lapel, couture quality finish and sense of haute gamme dandy.

Above all, the actual "hand" of the fabrics was stunning; mohair treated in such beguiling way that while the clothes were classical, the mood felt very new. This was certainly not a revolutionary show, nor was it supposed to be, but instead a smart evolution of Gianfranco's oeuvre.

"We twisted, treated and wove the mohair in ways that have not been done before giving it strength yet suppleness. So, in my view though the material is entirely natural it's much more high tech than anything done by others in nylon or micro fibers," explained Ridotto, a behind the scenes man modestly enjoying a well-deserved moment of recognition.

He was also careful to stress that, "we did not attempt any stylistic make over, but wanted to respect Signor Ferre's legacy and architectural fashion."

Now we can think of dozens of successors who have made that claim in fashion, without genuinely living up to it. Hats off to Ridotto for backing up his words with honest facts.

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Presented Sunday on stationary models in Ferre's headquarters on via Pontaccio, the spring looks had a refreshing crispness, in a clever modern updating of the Gianfranco's signature architectural style by his one time right hand man Giovanni Ridotto.

In a good deal of drama this spring, Ferre's initial successor Lars Nilsson was relieved of his job before even presenting his collection and replaced by the talented duo of Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, who did a brilliant job reinventing Malo, like Ferre a division of the Italian fashion consortium IT Holding. Known as 6267, after their birth years, Aquilano and Rimondi will be responsible for Ferre's women's collection, while Ridotto will oversee the house's men's signature line.

His collection was a brilliant advertisement for Italian fabrics, as the key material was mohair, treated with such novelty to create great lightweight clothes, yet one's that held their shape impressively.Bikin fashion, Beauty girl, Girl Beauty, Bikini girl, gai xinh, Fashion Designers