Emblazoned onto a cool gray cashmere sweatshirt, partially hidden as the pattern of a jet-black, dimpled trench or, most spectacularly, used in a racy metallic vest, the YSL signature was the leit motif of the show, even as Pilati subverted the logo.
The three letters were a metaphor for's reign as Saint Laurent's creative director, which has been a delicate balancing act between deference and subversion.
"Let's be honest my job athas been to respect the house and all it stands for while at the same time tearing it down," the lithe and ever dandy Pilati told FWD post show.
This highly tailored spring summer 2008 collection also stood way apart from the whole Milan and Paris seasons. In a moment of florid abandon and dreamy nature fabrics, Pilati did not show any prints. And in a month when designers dress women for picnics and fantasy balls, Pilati attired them for chic urban living.