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Gucci chose gold, for lace-up front stilletoes, and Versace and Armani both shaped heels with inward cuts to give an artistic flavor to the footwear.

Bags -- another important accessory for designers -- were big, soft and often carried a side pouch pocket, as at Dolce & Gabbana on Thursday -- enabling women to have the utility of a holdall and the chicness of a handbag together.

"A clutch bag that fits into a tote becomes your new twinset," Downing said.

For many designers, details were not confined to accessories and there were ample amounts of embroidery, ruffles and frills.

Emporio Armani had splashes of silver and sequins on Wednesday, Missoni banded a gold dress with bright turquoise that looked like enameling and Love, Sex, Money on Friday embroidered outfits in silver that gave an almost Turkish feel.

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Shorts or short skirts were favored by many brands, from hot pants at Blumarine to shorts at Versace and then trousers tied just above the knee at Giorgio Armani's two collections.

And if the trousers were long, they were almost all wide-legged and loose, with Dolce & Gabbana's D&G line labeling them "elephant foot."

Many designers opted for soft, flowing fabrics that they could layer for a selection of effects through teasingly transparent to full flounces.

Miuccia Prada, often seen as one of Milan's most innovative designers, used huge petals of tissue-like silk hung on the hips of dresses or draped across shoulders.

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And if hemlines really are a barometer of financial markets, current stock market falls will be short-lived as many skirts were short, either swinging full in 1950s style or pencil slim.

"The continuing message ... is colour, which is going to be very exciting for customers," Ken Downing, fashion director at Neiman Marcus in New York told Reuters.

Jil Sander, Marni and Burberry all used bold colors, while Donatella Versace ended her show on Thursday with a series of sweeping, slim evening gowns in jade, yellow, pink and turquoise -- a colour that seemed in every designer's paintbox.

At Gucci, designer Frida Giannini used a black and white base for her patterns but liberally splashed them with bright yellow and bubblegum pink.

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But while the guts of the collection were very fine and highly flattering clothes - the jodhpurs made the models look, if anything, too thin, meaning they will be very flattering for "normal women" - the beginning and finale were both more problematic.

Odd, and not terribly alluring floral prints whose petals seemed more like IED explosions failed to flatter. Plus whatever gave Giannini the idea of pairing some huge grand ball gowns with suede faux Lonsdale belts - a seriously dumb stylistic move - mystified us.

That said, one revealing fact about a designer's skill and commercial appeal is whether they wear their own season's clothes when they take their finale bow. Surprisingly few do it better than Frida Giannini, who looked, hang it all, better than most of the models when she took her bow like the poshest of punkettes, wearing the best items in her own collection.

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Italian designers always mix up youth cultures in a way a Brit or Yank would never dare. Giannini, for instance, teamed her New Wavers with 1950s rocker influences, so there were the long hair extensions and a Goodie Gal Next Door mood that recalled "Grease" and Olivia Newton John. One would never have imagined, watching this show, that back in the Seventies the punks and the rockers were sworn enemies.

The New Wavers were a striking juxtaposition to the show opening, which featured a short, yet rambling, reportage movie on the new David Lynch directed ad for the house's latest perfume Gucci by Gucci, shot in a colonial museum in Paris with establishing shots of LA. For the record, the ad looked like a real winner.

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Her big obsession this season is posh punk clothing, the sort of clothes fans of The Clash donned when they went to hear Joe Strummer sing "The Whiteman in the Hammersmith Palais."

So we got check rockabilly shirts, tight bubble pink schoolgirl jackets, and taut wee black, and rather brilliantly cut, scrawny punkette jodhpurs. Admittedly the savvy casting - from Natasha Poly and Raquel Zimmerman to new gals Masha and Marina L - who wore this Spring/Summer 2008 collection looked like they were thoroughly scrubbed and showered, unlike the scruffy punky lasses one used to run across at CBGBs, back in the day…

Halloween Costumes

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