One typically spectacular look wafted down the runway of the Grand Palais on model Olga Scherer, an asymmetrically cut biker jacket in a tough industrial leather with a chain mail choker and mega high brown velvet pants - a great head turning moment yet a completely credible fashion statement.
Pilati's sense of how to use volume as a flattering design element rather than a designer's ego statement was also admirable - with mannish Jesuit sleeved white shirts, peplum flounced tunics or fiendishly well-cut wrap skirts.
This show should also bury a frequent criticism of Pilati, that is clothes age women a little; for his twirling cuts, tough chic finish and sense of gal in control proportions kept the mood very youthful. Take the cocktail worn by , a mauve silk look with tight torso, bubble skirt and humungous black belt that would work on a granny or a teenage gal. Made in blacks and grays, with hints of turquoise, electric blue and the designer's fetish pale yellow, the palette was as coherent as the collection.