Anne Valérie Hash and Cathy Pill, by coincidence, both said they were inspired by the Viennese Secessionist artists Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. As it turned out, though, the references weren't particularly apparent in either Hash's pleated tweed miniskirts and tutus or Cathy Pill's abstract photoprint and jacquard dresses. If neither made an especially strong statement, they don't aspire to the kind of work seen on other runways this week. How, then, do these designers belong to "couture"? Only in the sense that some of their items are handmade one-offs. Never mind. Their presence is stirring a new kind of interest in Paris, and doubtless they'll be joined by others in seasons to come.
Boudicca's collection of sharply carved tailored pieces and fiercely dramatic dresses made for a strong debut from the perfectionist and passionate Zowie Broach and Brian Kirby. They've been honing and refining their skills in the East End of London since the late nineties, only using the most beautiful of fabrics—this season, cashmere, black lace, and silvered materials. The assured character of their strong, peaked shoulders and attenuated, narrow lines qualifies them as designers who are ready to step out of the margins into a more sophisticated arena.
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