Bikini cool

Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens captured the mood with his autumn-winter collection for Nina Ricci, sending out artfully disheveled outfits in heirloom satins, velvets and silks.

Models ambled through a tent in the Tuileries gardens in deconstructed jackets over slim pants in rich shades of sienna, purple and gold.

Jacket shoulders were deliberately knocked back, while inset panels followed the body's natural curve.

"I wanted to approach each item in the collection like the ultimate standalone piece," Theyskens told reporters after the show.

For evening, he gave Empress Josephine a rock chick makeover, sending out Empire-line gowns in dusty flesh colors that split open in the back for a semi-undressed feel.